Mastering masculine elegance : 7 principles for thinking like a sartorialist

Costume, cravate rouge avec points de polka et carré de poche

Sartorial art is a complex art, because you have to pay attention to many details that form a whole. If you succeed, your entire appearance will be transcended.

Fail on one of them and your entire outfit will be unbalanced. If you want to bypass classic errors and impose them immediately, know how to recognize false good ideas, which we have listed for you.

FIRST MISCONCEPTION: IT’S BETTER TO BUY A BLACK SUIT

For women, black has many qualities, slimming and elegant. For the men’s suit it is completely different.

Black is the color of mourning in Europe, and it is on this occasion that you can wear your black suit without fear . If and only if, you do not make any mistakes when combining your shoes: you must at all costs avoid tones of brown, as we see so often.

Black would in some ways be reserved for advanced sartorialists who will know how to enhance the suit with the perfect accessories: tie, socks, pocket square. In other words, if you don’t yet handle this little touch of taste with ease, refrain from wearing black at first!

Take advantage of Giorgio Armani’s experience which would direct you towards blue (navy blue, all-over blue, deep blue): the pinnacle of masculine elegance according to him.

SECOND MISCONCEPTION: SOCKS MUST BE GRAY OR BLACK

Contrary to popular belief, wearing dull, inconspicuous socks is not suitable for gentlemen who wear suits. It is for convenience, for ease, and to avoid attracting attention that men wear black or gray socks. Due to lack of knowledge, they wear neutral colors.

However, a pair of socks not coordinated with the suit, in a sharp color enhances any masculine outfit. It’s not about wearing happy socks with fun designs, although you can wear them with a casual outfit.

It’s about wearing luxury socks, made from lisle thread and adapted to your sartorial style . For example, My Red Socks offers a choice of socks for each of your looks, such as the popular Ivy League style . So, without making a mistake, you can choose a combination of sartorial socks from their entire range.

Dare the pattern, dare the color!

THIRD MISCONCEPTION: THE DOUBLE-BREASTED SUIT IS OUTDATED

Can we say that looking like Cary Grant, Fred Astaire, Clark Gable or Sean Connery is outdated? These actors have been elevated to the rank of muses of masculine elegance . Elegance is timeless.

What gave them real stature was the cut of their double-breasted jacket . The cut must absolutely be adjusted so as not to float in front because it is this detail that is the subject of discussion in the sartorial world. And that ruins your figure. Only this detail. Everything else is approved.

Hence the interest in half measures or large measures.

Please note that we now offer unstructured half-breasted jackets , in materials such as denim-effect linen. This is the specialty of Brunello Cucinelli who also dresses you for tennis or polo from head to toe.

Fashion passes, style remains.

FOURTH MISCONCEPTION: ACTIVE BUTTONHOLES PROVE CUSTOM MANUFACTURING

It is common to think that in ready-to-wear, the buttonholes are closed. This simple gesture of unstitching and opening the buttonhole would prove that a manual action was carried out and that therefore, the jacket or shirt would necessarily be made to measure or in large quantities.

But what purpose does an active or functional buttonhole actually serve ?

  • It allows you to roll up your sleeves when washing your hands.
  • It allows you to wear cufflinks.
  • Nowadays, it allows you to roll up your sleeves to avoid getting the garment dirty by rubbing against a desk, when typing on the computer for example.

New entrants into the sartorial world consider it fashionable to show that their buttonholes are functional. Except that in reality, it is perfectly possible to open closed buttonholes after purchase.

​Think like Hugo Boss, who does not judge the outfit by this element of detail, but by the overall quality of the suit.

FIFTH PRECONCEIVED IDEA: MATCH YOUR TIE WITH YOUR POCKET SQUARE

If you bought a matching tie and pocket square set, obviously they can be found and sold, you have fallen into the trap.

Legend has it that you match your accessories, which is true for women who can match a bag and shoes, a bag and a belt, without making a mistake in taste. As far as the man is concerned, unfortunately it doesn’t work. It lacks complexity and research.

You can match the pattern, if necessary, but without combining it with the color.

To find out how, simply take the time to try a pocket square with a different tie and you will be surprised to find that you can combine striking pieces.

SIXTH MISCONCEPTION: FASHION IS NOT MADE TO LAST, STYLE IS

This is yet another headwind discussion to combat norms and bring about in-depth reflection on the function of fashion and the existence of style as distinct elements.

​If we refer to sartorial art throughout history, through the classic masculine style, it is obvious that we no longer dress as in the time of the knights and that we no longer wear togas, nor a strawberry around the neck, although in their time, these elements were the mark of good taste. So style. Which should be timeless.

However, these artifacts have gone out of fashion.

There is therefore a close link between fashion and style, but a link which is woven over a very long period and which, on the scale of a lifetime, makes us think that style is timeless while fashion passes.

​Fashion is calculated in seasonal collections, i.e. every 6 months, and style makes a time loop and returns every 10 years.

Ralph Lauren has no problem marrying contemporary trends with classic styles. This is enough to open up perspectives.

SEVENTH MISCONCEPTION: STYLE IS A PERSONAL MATTER

An original creation is the sum of influences and images that we have preserved, without being aware of it, in our memory.

Also, to say that we invent a style, or that we have a strictly personal style , is to not understand human mechanisms. We don’t create anything, we adapt according to our needs.

Also, being permeable and being influenced doesn’t mean you don’t have a personality. But rather that you enjoy following trends and developments and making them your own.

Either way, you are unique. Only you wear pants or a jacket this way!

SARTORIALISM IN QUESTION

Finally, even if the etymology of the word is old, this term has only existed since the 19th century. We must know how to remain humble and above all creative, and this is what the sartorial movement teaches us: with the elements of our time, quality, knowing how to demonstrate good taste and originality.

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