Women’s sartorialism is coming out of the shadows
The sartorial state of mind is being reborn after years of being buried under a stubborn conformism that could no longer stand dresses, skirts, suit jackets, heels or sophisticated classicism.
In fact, when it comes to sartorialism, it’s (almost) all about men. That’s why, timidly, even discreetly, we’re starting to see pieces dedicated to women. The garçonne tuxedo trend was popularised by the most beautiful women, such as Marlene Dietrich, in the 30s. Almost a whole century ago. Tailors didn’t really concern themselves with it. Yet an ultra-feminised three-piece suit should inspire entire collections. Creativity is the order of the day, and you can break away from established conformism to create combinations and mix and match your pieces: a blazer and skirt, a suit jacket or fitted waistcoat and tie with oversized trousers.
This is what’s known as new-wave tailoring.
The only rule to obey is that of good taste.
So who’s having a go?
Well, some of the big names known internationally in bespoke tailoring: Timothy Everest at Welsh & Jefferies or Cifonelli. But you won’t find anything about women’s tailoring on their websites. You have to go to their boutiques.
Lorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli: their bespoke workshop in Paris
The two Italian brothers come from a Roman family that has internationalised and built a brand around their name and their recognised technical expertise in bespoke tailoring (the famous Cifonelli curved shoulder).
These days, in Paris, their workshop designs men’s and women’s suits at 31 rue Marbeuf. To create pieces of consistently impeccable quality and style. From tweed hunting jackets to suit jackets in the Cifonelli cut.
And the workshop in rue Marbeuf is where London style, Italian taste and French luxury meet. Women now account for 10% of Cifonelli’s customers.
Scavini: bespoke tailoring for women that’s all about the trousers
Scavini admits that making tailored women’s jackets is a skill the company doesn’t have. However, the tailors (also stylists) know how to dress their legs. And make them garments that hug their curves.
Scavini puts its all into the female gait It’s best to bring the pair of shoes you want to wear, as the trousers will be sewn around them.
The workshop works mainly with merino wool, which is also used for coats and jackets. With linen too, for more floaty trousers. It’s still a garçonne style, and of undeniable quality.
Where can you find Scavini? In the 7th arrondissement, the shop is at 50 rue de la Tour Maubourg. By appointment only.
Torcello says yes to women
Here is a workshop that is not afraid of the elegant woman and brings its know-how to the making of their made-to-measure wardrobe. Be aware that this does not consist of bespoke tailoring. But existing designs that will be tailored to the customer’s measurements.
The brand offers two coat designs and several tuxedos for women. For events, a special occasion or as a wedding suit.
For jackets, it’s thesuper-customised details that are front and centre. The variety of fabrics and materials to choose from makes your jacket absolutely unique.
Torcello offers an introductory service allowing first-time tailor customers to come into the boutique and learn about the subtleties of tailoring before taking the plunge. A smart way to go from ready-to-wear to your first tailor-made order.
Let bespoke tailoring win you over at 130 rue de Grenelle, in the women’s tailoring workshop in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. Or at 134 rue Cardinet, in the 17th arrondissement of Paris. By appointment only, to be made online.
Where does that leave traditional luxury brands?
Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Coco Chanel, Louis Vuitton…. Do these brands not pledge to offer the elegance and quality befitting of their customers?
And what is the point of runway shows, if not to offer unique artistic creations by the biggest names?
Well yes, it’s exactly that: wearing names, brands and clothes from a big-name fashion house. In the Karl Lagerfeld days, the Chanel workshops followed the master’s instructions by hand: embroidery, pearls, silk, everything was hand-sewn. And then tailored to the customers’ sizes. Thousands of hours’ work.
The outfits are not one-offs, but like numbered works of art that are virtually impossible to find anywhere else in the world.
Of course, for the great and the good, it’s possible to have completely new one-off outfits made: a unique suit, an exceptional jacket or pair of trousers, or a wedding dress. You won’t have to keep count of the hours put in, and the price will be discretionary.
On the plus side, all the brand’s accessories can be found in the boutique. To enhance your outfit and let the brand environment win you over. After all, shopping is a pleasure…
To take it further, check out also the unrivalled shopping experience of Parisian luxury boutiques.
How to combine your trip to Paris with bespoke tailoring
To get a bespoke or semi bespoke women’s suit in Paris, the patterns for your unique item will have to be specially made. And it takes time to create a unique suit. On the other hand, you can take advantage of your stay in Paris to have your measurements taken in your favourite boutique and opt to have your made-to-measure tuxedo made in the workshop of your choice. There are no patterns to be cut out in this case.
Plus, you’re not the only one wanting to bring back clothing from Paris as a memento: all the brands now offer a delivery service for your items within France and internationally.
