Calceophiles are shoe addicts, the generally male passion of fans of custom shoes . Leather shoes that don’t crease, suede shoes, especially not synthetic ones, which are preferably called suede leather.
Men can fall in love with their shoes. If we see it as a gateway, like an Audemars Piguet or a Rolex, to recognition, it is not surprising that a real emotional bond is formed.
It is even said that the shape of the shoe says a lot about its owner. And, when he finds the right shoe for him, he orders it in several colors as a sign of loyalty and fidelity.
CRITERIA FOR SELECTING QUALITY SHOES
The criteria to which we must pay attention are taught to us by the master bootmakers themselves, who, better than anyone, choose quality alone.
THE BEHAVIOR OF SHOE LEATHER: VISUAL RENDERING AND FITTING
Leather , if it should be clarified, is the skin of the animal (often calf, lamb or bovine). However, the skin is not of identical quality, whether it is located just under the epidermis or deeper. There are therefore three designations , from the most high-end to the crudest:
- Full grain : it retains part of the dermis, which gives it a particularly soft touch, as well as all layers of the skin. It is therefore the most authentic leather, but also the hardest to maintain. Its only processing is a dip in pigment or dye, which corresponds to an aniline finish.
- The flower corrected : the dermis is removed. We say that the flower is corrected because by removing the dermis, we remove the irregularities. But in doing so also a bit of quality. Especially since the treatments are more important.
- Split leather : this is the type of leather that is offered in ready-to-wear or by brands that offer shoes for less than €100 per pair.
For smooth leather, the regularity of the grain demonstrates high quality tanning. The appearance is slightly shiny because it naturally reflects the light, without exaggeration which would be a sign of treatment reserved for split leather. All that glitters is not gold!
For suede or nubuck leathers , we must visually approximate a velvet without grain and without roughness to the touch.
In any case, if you put the shoe on and it immediately produces creases, even though you have only walked a few meters, put it down and change stores.
Read also: Richelieu: The classic of men’s shoes
QUALITY ASSEMBLY AND STITCHING FOR A DURABLE AND AESTHETIC SHOE
The assembly techniques are also the mark of quality in the art of bootmaking . Manufacturing is criterion number 2 after tannery. Please note that welded assembly, otherwise called glued, does not require sewing, and therefore we will not deal with it in these lines.
THE GOODYEAR ASSEMBLY
The advantage of this assembly is that it is robust , thanks to a seam which connects the upper to a welt itself sewn to the sole. It allows resoling , which extends the life of your pair of shoes.
THE BLAKE EDIT
This is an assembly that makes the shoe waterproof and flexible : the upper is sewn directly to the outer and inner sole.
THE NORWEGIAN MONTAGE
This is a double-stitched but visible assembly. Initially, this assembly is designed for outdoor work and adapts very well to a more casual model or to boots, a heavier shoe. The advantage of Norwegian stitching is permeability and therefore, a very dry foot for venturing elsewhere than in the city.
Visually the external seams (small stitch seams) must be fine, closely spaced, uninterrupted and without relief. Also check the stitching of the leather sole, because what you can’t see is indicative of the real quality of the model.
BOOTMAKER BRANDS THAT MEET THE MOST DEMANDING CRITERIA
Here are different options in terms of price to fit all men without restriction.
MEERMIN: YOUR SPANISH DESIGNED AND MADE SHOES
The brand is based in the Balearic Islands. To maintain affordable prices, it has decided to sell directly to men but maintaining a Made To Order branch where we finance a proposed model by pre-ordering. It will therefore be in limited edition, on demand, which gives it the rarity sought after in tailor-made products. All other ranges are on sale on their official website, from moccasins to boots, including Oxfords.
They meet our quality criteria in terms of choice of leather and processing.
LOAKE: THE ENGLISH BRAND THAT CANNOT BE FOUND IN FRANCE
This family business offers shoes with a British personality. Goodyear welt is its specialty, and the brand really advocates for the durability of shoes by guaranteeing the possibility of repairing your pair in a shoe repair shop. They guide novice men on the path to maintaining a patina, full grain leather. They are activists in a way. They are represented in Paris by the British Shoes boutique, rue de Prague, but you can buy your ankle boots, loafers (moccasins) or brogues from their site for home delivery.
SEPTIÈME LARGEUR: A FRENCH DESIGNER PASSIONATE ABOUT BEAUTIFUL SHOES
Communicating the male passion for shoes and providing access to high-end shoes to all men, this is the mission of 7L. A family business, defenders of Goodyear welts in France, and with their own patina workshop, the Fernandezes are recognized in the world of creators of French origin. The originality of their models, their artisanal excellence and their desire to pass on their experience make them a brand you absolutely must know.
In the showroom in Paris or on their website, find all the information on choosing the right size, shape, the history of their leathers, leather maintenance. Their creations are unique, and calceophiles recognize a pair of Septième Largeur shoes when they come across them.
BERLUTI: THE NON-CONFORMIST OF PARIS
The one that makes men’s feet much more than elegant: sexy is the right word. Because the most original masculine style is a creation created by a woman. Olga Berluti is the priestess of men’s shoes.
His touch: working on the shape of the shoe, particularly at the toe, is his trademark. The ultra customization of the model, classic, but tattooed with unique decorations is suitable for men who like to show off their feet. Without sobriety. Including in the price. The derby goes from boring to crazy.
Olga discovered tattooing on leather which she uses on accessories such as belts or leather goods. It is a tour de force and a pleasure originating in France.
THE SILHOUETTE CAN BE READ FROM HEAD TO TOE
The proverbial devil is in the details. Details cannot deceive. The complete outfit, the cut of the suit, the choice of shirt , collar, cuffs, the shape of the shoes, the assortment of colors (you don’t pair brown shoes with a black suit), all this information says something. long on your mastery of the sartorial art.
There is seeing, and there is looking. We hope you are beautiful to look at.
