Never compromise on this principle: great measure is the art of tailoring that is completely handmade, with a unique pattern, possibly reusable for you and you alone. To your measurements. This is also what we call bespoke tailoring. If any of these conditions are not met, it is no longer a matter of great measure.
It is the pinnacle of masculine elegance, a unique suit whose meticulous protocol revealed by the tailor of your choice must be appreciated.
LARGE-SCALE COSTUME: FABRICS
The choice of fabrics is undoubtedly a crucial moment in the design and making of the suit. The fit, comfort, flexibility or rigidity, everything is part of a scenario linked to the life of your suit and even to the man who wears it: posture, movements, everything is studied to choose the appropriate fabric.
The most elegant fabrics are (mainly) English or Italian.
THE HERITAGE OF ENGLISH TEXTILES
The prestige of wools from England no longer needs to be demonstrated. Wool is a natural and noble fiber, a robust fabric with breathable properties which gives the garment impeccable support over time. As long as you know how to maintain it properly.
- The tweed suit: this is a basic in men’s wardrobe. To be worn in everyday winter life, tweed (Scottish or English) enhances silhouettes thanks to impeccable support.
- Worsted wool : thanks to treatment of its fiber, the wool softens and becomes a light reflector. A soft wool with a silky finish, which does not pill.
- Flannel : depending on the fineness of the thread and the weave, you can make a suit as well as a shirt. On a suit, we will appreciate the slightly downy feel. Wear in winter or as a casual outfit, with just the suit jacket over jeans.
- Barathea wool : this very fine weave has greatly contributed to the success of English fabrics around the world. A fabric that is flexible, with a slightly silky effect, and which adapts perfectly to a large suit for men, business version.
THE HERITAGE OF ITALIAN TEXTILES
Italy is very talented in many areas of luxury, particularly in the manufacture of silk, wool, linen and cotton fabrics. Silk is particularly popular for ties and scarves. Let’s not forget to mention the Italian brand Loro Piana which supplies all the good master tailors in the world.
- Italian wool : it is in the province of Biella that very high quality wool is produced. With merino wool, we make suits and sweaters (for a casual-chic look to replace the traditional shirt).
- Silk : it is in George Clooney’s stronghold, the Como region, that the silk generally used for women’s blouses is produced. The most discreet man will appreciate a beautiful silk tie; those who love to shine will use great measure to realize their dream of dressing all in silk, with a most original piece.
- Flax : if it is in the north of Europe that flax is grown, it is Italy which stands out in its industrial transformation processes. Its special treatments improve the fiber which wrinkles less and is softer. Large tailoring cannot do without linen, neither for shirts nor for suits.
THE CUT OF THE LARGE SUIT AND COMPATIBILITY WITH THE MAN’S BODY
The master tailor asks you a lot of questions? Does he observe you and move around you? It’s perfect. The advice he will give you is worth gold. Because even before the measurement appointment, it is he who will tell you which cut is the most prominent for you. When creating the patronage, it will be necessary to be fixed. Because the adjustments made to the patterns serve as a template for cutting the fabric and everything is already done!
REGULAR FIT OR CLASSIC CUT
Natural shoulders and a straight silhouette are the promise of the classic cut: controlled width to free movement. It’s a traditional cut. We will choose a jacket with two or three buttons. It is therefore the quality of the finishes and the personalization of the details that will make this garment unique. You will wear this costume very easily in everyday life.
THE SLIM FIT OR ADJUSTED CUT
This cut does not suit everyone even if the result is modern and trendy. It is the jacket that will determine the occasion for wearing this suit: a single button for a tuxedo effect on a wedding suit, two buttons for casual use, three buttons to play the slim card all the way. A jacket that is in any case very fitted and close to the body, like the pants.
THE ITALIAN CUT
It is close to the classic cut in that it is natural. No excessive bending, no pants that are too tight. It is in the shoulder and the sleeves of the jacket that everything is played out: Roman or Neapolitan shoulder , followed by a sleeve and a cuff of the same nature. Some Italian master tailors based in Paris, such as Cifonelli and Smalto, have mastered these techniques perfectly.
THE ENGLISH CUP
The English school has a military inspiration, which is reflected even in the cut of your large suit. Designed to have a silhouette-maintaining effect, it will be supported by a tweed fabric with a Prince of Wales pattern. The shoulder is straight, almost military, the waist is marked and high. This suit suits men who want to have poise and an imposing build.
MAKING YOUR CUSTOM SUIT
After the patterns have been fitted directly to you, after cutting out the fabrics you have carefully chosen, it’s time to sew . An excellent tailor, even surrounded by small hands, will not be able to deliver your suit for weeks. Sometimes months if he has to order the fabric. A large customer is prepared to wait, especially since the realization is not done in a single step. You have to come back for fittings, which allows you to weigh the weight of the hours spent waiting.
THE BIG MEASURE: AN INVITATION TO CONTEMPLATION
At its most noble, large measurement offers us a new reference model based on centuries of practice supplemented by new know-how that continues to evolve.
