Certainly, in Paris , there live the anthological master tailors of great measure. But the fashion square is not limited to Avenue Montaigne . It could even be that designer tailors prefer the stimulation of rue Montorgueil or even Château-Rouge , to draw inspiration from everyday styles and let their art flourish.
THE HISTORIC WORKSHOPS OF THE FRENCH CAPITAL
We count at the top the ultra-renowned large-scale houses in France and abroad. There are more men’s suits than women’s suits , which may seem strange given that women have a very natural appetite for fashion.
However, it is the making of men’s suits which remains the standard of great measure.
LARGE MEN’S MEASURE: THE GREAT PARISIAN HOUSES
In Italian, English or French tradition, these tailors of great measure occupy the streets of Paris.
- Cifonelli : trained in English tailoring, assimilated to Italian cutting and eternal students of French style , the Cifonellis have a unique heritage: the Cifonelli shoulder. By its shape and its assembly, the Cifonelli shoulder stands out and this is a worldwide consensus. However, without wanting to dwell on this element of detail, the line of the suit is particularly worked, with other specificities in terms of the jacket and the sewing techniques. The Cifonelli man must be virile and it is largely thanks to the line of their suit that all men become so. For bespoke tailoring , go to the boutique at 31 rue Marbeuf in Paris.
- Camps de Luca : The unique alliance of a Spanish tailor (Camps) and an Italian tailor (de Luca). From this alliance was born the Parisian cran . Since both settled in the same workshop after the war, it is natural that the French style largely inspired these creators. The large Camps de Luca suit is designed for comfort , with freedom of movement in mind. Which places it in a different style from the English cut and the Italian cut from Cifonelli. Meet on the 1st floor of 11 rue des Pyramides (reservation required) to meet the tailors trained by Mario de Luca himself.
- Smalto : the star student of Camps de Luca has matured and has been able to make the legacy transmitted by the school of Parisian grit prosper. Smalto respected the original creation and made it evolve: it now has its own touch: the Smalto notch , otherwise called square lapel notch or even, couture notch. He worked diligently on his own shoulder which allows the collar to stay in place behind the neck. Of course, the buttonholes are sewn in the Milanese style, in the pure tradition of great measure. All of Paris, politicians, actors, renowned entrepreneurs, have been dressed at least once by Smalto. Discover the allure of Maison Smalto , in the golden triangle of Paris, 44 rue François Iᵉʳ
LARGE FEMININE TAILORING: WOMEN ALSO WANT A LARGE TAILORING
Obviously, Haute Couture brands cannot do without Bespoke. Of course, in these conditions, clothing is priceless. Even more so if the piece is unique and designer. What is quite paradoxical is that we have often campaigned on the accessibility of Haute Couture to the general public. Result: today, it is easier to find luxury women’s ready-to-wear than designer women’s clothing.
- Chanel : for a Chanel wedding dress or a gala dress , you will have to go through Émilie Viard, the current Artistic Director who succeeded Lagerfeld. She is the one who takes care of all the brand’s creations and puts together the seasonal fashion shows. The legendary Chanel address is located at 31 rue Cambon in Paris.
- Catarina Knoch : a UFO in the couture landscape, a stone’s throw from the Eiffel Tower. Catarina worked for Smalto for 13 years and has more than 30,000 hours of work as a seamstress. Which makes her a master tailor. Finally, a woman also takes care of women. Its customers want handmade products, want to know the manufacturing processes and want to be sure that children or distant workers are not exploited. Here, we dress women in great measure for everyday life: coat, skirt, jacket, suit, pants and even dresses.
THE YOUNG INNOVATIVE CREATORS OF PARIS
Not yet ready for rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré or the left bank, creators discover themselves in unusual places or in the corner shops of department stores. Think of Marais, Montorgueil, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, for example.
- Ludovic de Saint Sernin : no big measures yet for this designer but half measures for his Swarovski collection . You can find its Idss line at Printemps on rue Caumartin. Young, authentic, inspired by Balmain and Alaïa, it’s a name that gets people talking.
- Victor Weinsanto : Exception is not customary, but it is on Saint-Honoré that we can explore the graphic and futuristic universe of Weinsanto. Normal, Madonna is already a customer.
- Youssouf Fofana : Parisians know him, because he is a bit of a spokesperson for the Gout d’Or district, a working-class neighborhood in the 18th arrondissement. His label MCR (Maison Château Rouge) obviously uses wax fabric and it is now at fashion week that you will find the designer. Or in London, Tokyo and Beijing. Zulu inspiration, afro-streetwear, tourists love it. Because obviously for Youssouf, fashion is in the street.
A GREAT SERVICE FROM THE CHOICE OF FABRIC TO THE PERSONALIZATION BY HAND
Traditional or avant-garde, making large-scale clothing has become an attractive phenomenon that appeals greatly to the younger generation. Tired of ready-to-wear and above all very demanding for the finishing touches, she wants fittings, alterations, special attention. And create a story that lasts with his master Parisian tailor.
